Showing posts with label life insurance finances living stingy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label life insurance finances living stingy. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Shopping your HOMEOWNERS Insurance

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Note: This is an update of a 2009 Article.

 An Independent Insurance Agent can provide you with competitive quotes on homeowner's insurance and save you hundreds of dollars a year.


Many folks don't think twice about their homeowner's insurance. Yea, they've got it, but they don't pay attention too much to what it covers or costs. They picked the Insurance Agent their Real Estate Agent recommended and just assumed that what the Agent quoted was what insurance cost - and that was that.

And since most people pay their homeowner's insurance as part of their monthly mortgage payment, it doesn't seem like a lot of money - maybe $100 a month or so.  But if you could save $500 a year, wouldn't you do that, even if it was less than $50 a month in savings?

The few that do think about their homeowner's policies are the one's that drive up costs for everybody else. They look at the policy like a Chinese take-out menu and think to themselves, "Oh, I'll have a glass claim, and a tree damage claim, and a wind and hail claim, and do I get eggroll with that?" Those are the types of folks who, whenever anything bad happens in their lives, wants someone else to pay for it. And their frivolous claims drive up costs for everyone else - and may constitute fraud as well.

When an accident, storm, fire, or other catastrophe happens, it should not be like a vacation in Jamaica, where not only are you made whole, but you come out ahead. Insurance companies sometimes do this (inexplicably) and it adds to the overall cost of insurance for the rest of us. Other companies take a hard line on payouts, which means lower premiums. But then policyholders (the second type mentioned above) whine about how the insurance "doesn't pay for anything".

Actually, the reason why insurance companies like to sell cradle-to-grave coverage is that it makes money. They use fear and the apparent low price of the coverage to get you to sign up for it, just as pushy salesmen try to get you to sign up for often worthless extended warranties. A few hundred a year for "peace of mind" seems trivial. But again, over the years, this adds up - and if you never have a claim, you've wasted a lot of money on peace of mind.

Frankly, I think you are better off having less insurance and paying less for it. Paying a lot for "cradle to grave" coverage over the years can add up to a lot of money. Paying $500 extra a year for homeowners insurance (it can be done) over the period of your working life, can add up to $15,000 in savings alone - with compound interest at 5% per annum, this could be as much as 34,880.39 invested. Wasting a "little" money on extra insurance can add up to a lot over time.

How can you cut your homeowner's insurance expenses? To begin with, stop thinking of insurance as something that should cover the minor tragedies in your life. Your son throws a softball through a window - you should be thinking of calling a glass company, not your insurance agent.

Yes, some whoop-de-do insurance polices provide glass coverage for not a lot of money per year - and insulated glass windows are expensive. But you know something funny? I've owned a home for over 25 years, plus had rental properties, and and office building. None of them has ever had a broken window. It is a fairly rare occurrence. So paying "only" $25 a year extra for glass breakage protection is a lot of money if you think about it. You can buy a new insulated window at Lowes for $99.

Raising your deductible is the main way to drastically cut costs, while still making sure you are protected for catastrophic coverage. That is what you should think of insurance as - a safety net, not a bank account. Insurance is there to help ameliorate losses, not make you better off than you were before. And it isn't there to pay for trivial things - or at least it shouldn't be.

First, check with your mortgage holder to see how high a deductible they will live with. Most will go to 3% to 5% of borrowed amount. Most insurance companies offer $5,000 and even $10,000 deductibles. Yes, that is a lot of money, but we are talking about paying off your loan if your house burns down. That is the main thing here (and probably the primary reason you have insurance). If you are willing to take a risk on that deducible amount, you will reap the rewards of lower premiums.

For one of my homeowner's policies, the amount saved was nearly $500, by going from $500 to $10,000 deductible. The policy went from $1300 a year to $800 a year. How much a deductible you should use depends on your comfort level, financial situation, and risk factors, of course. But going to even a $1000 deductible can cut costs dramatically, as it eliminates a lot of those frivolous claims that the company has to deal with (and spend money on).

Check also for "junk" coverage on your policy. One insurance company automatically added "Identity Theft Protection" insurance without my knowledge. As I have noted before, the concept of Identity Theft is hyped by financial institutions to keep you scared (see my article Fear, the Least Useful Emotion) and get you to bu these things. But let's assume I had an identity theft situation. If I never read my homeowner's policy, I never would have known I had it anyway, and never thought to file a claim on it. And guess how filing a claim on policies like that works out. Just guess.

Check also the coverage for your home. Some agents routinely over-insure homes. Larger policies mean larger premiums, which in turn mean larger commissions. So check to be sure the amount listed on the policy is not overkill. Granted, the opposite can also happen, if the policy is too small. Check the average cost of construction in your area (per square foot) and calculate accordingly. Bear in mind that even in a catastrophic fire, much structure of a house can be salvaged (such as the foundation) so rebuilding can be less expensive than building a new house from scratch.

Contents coverage is another area to check. It may be part of the policy and based on the value of the house. On some policies, it is not optional and you have to have it. For separate flood and wind policies, however, it may be optional, and you should weigh whether it is necessary. For example, for my vacation home, furnished entirely in wicker and rattan (at a cost of $15,000) is it worth insuring the furniture? Yes, it would be nice to get a "payoff" if a storm hit, but again, that is taking the lottery mentality to insurance. A storm, flood, or fire is NOT a welcome event and you should not be planning your life around potential disasters.

Pricing insurance before you buy a home is also important. The costs vary from State to State, Company to Company, and area to area. Coastal areas may be much higher and also require separate flood and wind policies, as we do here in Coastal Georgia. Other areas with high fire risks may also be more expensive. If you have a choice of where to live, consider the insurance costs. If you end up retiring there, it will make a difference to you.

Also consider the size and type of home you have or want. Larger homes cost more to insure. So the giant mini-mansion is not only more costly to buy and more costly to maintain, heat, and cool, it is more costly to insure. It might impressing strangers with an appearance of wealth, while driving you to the poor house. Buying a house with extra bedrooms for "resale value" or "because the grandkids might visit" is not really cost-effective, in the long run.

It also pays to SHOP your policy around, every so often. You might spend an hour or two talking to agents, but once you've found the best deal, it pretty much runs on autopilot after that. You may get a good deal by insuring your home with the same company than insures your cars - or not. Oftentimes, agents offer these "discounts" merely to mask overpricing on auto policies. You think you are getting a "deal" when you are not. I have found that separate auto and home policies, properly shopped, beats the "combined discount" by over a thousand dollars a years.

Flood insurance is usually offered through FEMA and other government agencies. You usually have little choice here, but you should check to be sure you are rated on the proper flood zone, and also bear in mind that FEMA re-assigns flood zone ratings occasionally. You can get an elevation survey done for your home for about $300 or so. If you are above a certain level, it can save a significant amount on flood insurance. Here in Georgia, I had a survey done, and I missed the golden mark by a mere six inches. If the house were 6 inches higher in elevation, my flood insurance would have dropped by at least $100 to $200 a year.

Again, the extra cost of over-insuring your home may seem trivial. But if you add up the savings over the years you will be living in your home, it comes out to a substantial amount of money. And as I noted in my entry Disposable Income and Cost Cutting, every dollar you save in reduced costs may be equivalent to a pay raise of ten times that amount, in terms of the increase to your disposable income.

At the very least, you should remember that a dollar saved is a dollar earned - tax-free. If you are in the 27.5% marginal bracket, you may be paying as much as 50% in taxes on that last dollar, in terms of Federal, State, Social Security and Medicare taxes. A dollar saved, thus equates directly to a $1.50 earned.

If you think outside the box, and approach each expense as an exercise in creativity, you'd be surprised how much you can save - and how better you can live.

UPDATE:  March 2011

I recently shopped my homeowner's policy here on the Island and saved a whopping $1500 a year in costs.  This is a staggering amount of money.  The local independent agent could write a single policy for both homeowner's coverage and wind coverage, eliminating one whole policy.  Flood insurance, of course, is in a pool, and thus there are no savings, unless I can jack the house up a foot.

Most people go with the recommendation of their Real Estate Agent as to which company to use, and oftentimes, this is the fellow (or gal) who takes the Real Estate Agent out to lunch - a lot.  Shop around, all it takes is a few phone calls.

Also, as one independent agent noted, and as my personal experience confirms, many of the "big" insurance companies are increasingly the worst to insure through.  As I noted, State Farm seems more interested in banking and finance these days and seems to view insurance as some sort of nuisance - they don't even write policies for whole sections of the country.  And other "big" nationwide companies are following suit.

And often, their rates are not very good, either.  I saved $500 a year by switching from State Farm to a smaller company, in New York, and saved $1500 by going from Nationwide to a smaller company here in Georgia.  These are serious amounts of money for anyone at any income level.

I am not sure how these major chains are going to survive.  State Farm has an office on every street corner, it seems, but their policies are very expensive - so who is going to buy them?  Perhaps like Amway, they make more money selling Agencies than they do insurance - and they seem to be minting an awful lot of new agents these days!  Just my hunch, but look for some fallout from this in about 1-2 years, as many of these newly minted agents in increasingly overcrowded markets find it harder to eke out a living. 

Just my hunch - you can't defy the laws of economic gravity for long.  And when you sell an overpriced product and a billion outlets, eventually people will wise up and find cheaper alternatives.

Although, I suppose you could say that about Starbucks, and they seem to keep going.... An apt analogy - State Farm is the Starbucks of Insurance.  And the barista does give you attitude with every cup!
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Saturday, October 10, 2009

Do you need LIFE INSURANCE? Yes, No, and Maybe

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Do you need LIFE INSURANCE? Yes, No, and Maybe.

Should you buy life insurance? Why? and Why not?

Over the years I have bought a number of life insurance polices - term life, whole life, adjustable life, variable life. Some are a basic insurance policy - a bet that you will die - and a means of protecting loved ones should you die prematurely. Others are investment vehicles of varying degree and usefulness. The following comments are based on my experiences.


1. TERM INSURANCE

For most people, there will be a time in their lives when a simple term life policy is appropriate. Term Life is the cheapest life insurance there is, the one with the fewest benefits to you directly.

Simply stated, a term life policy is a bet. You are gambling the monthly premiums, on the premise that before the policy expires you will die. The payoff is in the face amount to your heirs. The insurance company is betting that you will not shuffle off the mortal coil so quickly (the will to live is strong, after all) and will take your premiums and pay out nothing.

If you are young and have financial responsibilities to others, a term policy may be in order. For example, my friend John had a wife and child and a mortgage to pay. At age 30, he had hardly built up much of an estate yet. He had little to leave to his wife and child should he die. He bought a $100,000 term life policy. The premiums cost a few hundred dollars a year.

Tragedy struck, and he was killed in a car accident. The payout from the life insurance meant that his wife could pay off the mortgage and raise their child while only working part-time. If he hadn't bought that policy, his wife would have been destitute, and had to work full-time while raising a child. In his situation, a term life policy makes sense.

Shop around on term life. Rates are very competitive, but many agents mark up the policies a lot. Like extended warranties, it is easy to convince the customer that they are getting a "lot" (potential huge payout) in exchange for a relatively small amount (the premium). But since the odds of young people dying are long, the premium may be no bargain. Shop around.

Many associations, credit unions, and other organizations may have term life policies that may or may not be a good deal. In some cases they can be quite competitive. I have a policy through the American Bar Association. The only downside is that I have to pay dues to the American Bar Association to qualify, and the dues are quite hefty.

Most term policies are for a specific period - 10, 20 years or the like. Once the term is up, that's it. You walk away with nothing. That's why it is called "Term Life Insurance". As you get older, the odds of you dying approach 1:1, so the insurance company doesn't want to insure you forever.

Many term policies have level premiums, but most increase premiums over time as you get older. Eventually, you may have to make the decision to drop coverage, as the premiums become too large. Hopefully, by that point in your life, you will have some Estate to leave to your spouse and child (401(k), house, etc.) so that the life insurance is unnecessary. Figuring out when to drop coverage is hard to do. After all the payout seems so large compared to the premiums paid, right?

Some policies, like my ABA policy, pay dividends, but it is rare. Dividends are paid when the premiums taken in are more than the amounts paid out. Organizations may ask you to donate the dividends to them (as the ABA does) requiring you to request, in writing, every year, the cash equivalent of the dividends if you want them.

As I noted, when you get older, you are going to die, period. So life insurance for older people makes no sense whatsoever. Yet television commercials abound for "Senior Life" insurance, for folks too dotty to figure out that you can't get something-for-nothing. These "burial policies" basically provide little in benefits (maybe a few thousand dollars) for relatively high premiums. There is little bargain in these policies and I would advise staying away. Life insurance is a young man's game, and if you didn't buy it when young, then forget about it when you get old.


2. WHOLE LIFE

Whole life is an interesting concept. Originally, the idea behind it was to increase the premium beyond that needed for the insurance itself, such that the excess premium could be invested and the policy "paid up". "Paid up" means that no more premium is due and the policy is completely paid for.

Since part of the premiums paid are not going toward the insurance, they act as an investment vehicle. And the tax code has a "loophole" ("loophole" is a lazy man's term for the law) that allows you to take out money invested in a life insurance policy in the form of a loan or annuity, tax free. You can also "cash out" a policy and take the money, but you may have taxes to pay if the amount taken out exceeds the amount paid in.

A whole life policy is a complicated financial instrument, and my mantra that "the more complicated a financial transaction is, the easier it is to fleece the mark" applies here. Like a car lease, it pays to read the fine print - or in many instances, just walk away. And as I noted in my previous article, don't make the mistake of assuming the insurance agent is your friend acting in your best interests. He is on commission and gets paid to sell polices. Verbal representations he makes are worth nothing. Read the policy before buying.

For the first few years you have a whole life policy, it seems like a waste of time. You pay into the policy and the cash value remains flat, or increases slightly. In terms of an investment, it is a lousy one. Many people drop out of such plans at that point, not seeing any rate of return and figuring their money will do better elsewhere. After a decade or so, the policy is no longer "upside down" and the annual increase in cash value will exceed the premiums paid that year. For my whole life policy, this is the case - each dollar I put into it in premium equates to nearly two dollars in increased cash value.

Whole life policies generally pay dividends, again based on the profitability of the company - how much is paid out versus taken in. These dividends can be used in a number of ways. Your agent (again NOT your buddy!) will suggest you use them to buy more insurance. He gets a taste of this and the company make more money this way, so naturally he suggests it. But most policies allow you to take the dividends as cash or apply them to reduce your premiums. After a number of years, the policy may be self-funding based on dividends.

Again, your agent will suggest you don't do this, but rather buy more insurance with the dividends. Buying more insurance will increase the size of the policy and also increase the cash value more quickly. However, you may find that you already have enough insurance and would rather invest the money in other areas (tax-deferred accounts such as IRAs).

In fact, you may encounter extreme resistance from your agent if you try to change the option in your policy to use dividends to reduce premium or take them in cash. For example, such a policy change may only be available during a window period on the anniversary date of the policy. The Agent will conveniently forget to tell you this, and hope that by the time of the next anniversary date, you will have forgotten all about it. Or the policy may not allow you to use dividends to reduce premium until the dividends exceed the premiums - but you can still take the dividends in cash, of course. My Northwestern Agent told me that on one policy I could not use dividends to reduce premiums. He conveniently "forgot" to tell me that I could take them as cash.

You have to read the policy carefully to understand how it works, and keep in mind the various rules and anniversary dates. Like any financial instrument, you have to be proactive and get involved.

Most policies also have a loan provision, allowing you to borrow against the policy cash value at a predetermined fixed rate. If you took out the policy during a time of low interest rates, this can be a good deal later on if rates go up. But if (like me) you bought a policy when rates were high (8%) then the loan provision may be no big bargain, except as a lender of last resort.

On the "back end" of whole life, you can take out money when you retire. You can do this in one of a number of ways. You can borrow against the policy and spend that money, with the proceeds of the insurance (when you die) paying off the loan. Since this is a loan, the money you spend is tax-free (life insurance proceeds are not taxable). Others have annuity provisions, that pay out X dollars per month (e..g, $5) for every $1000 in insurance. So, for example, for a $100,000 policy, you may get an annuity of $500 a month, if you retire at a certain age. Again, you have to read the policy to understand these options.

You can also cash out the policy at any time, although this usually is the least profitable thing to do, as the cash value is usually worth far less than what you paid in, and there may be tax consequences.

Is whole life right for you? Probably NOT. If you have an IRA, 401(k), SEP or other tax-deferred retirement plan you can participate in, such plans are probably better use of your investment monies. You can control (to some extent) where the money is invested, and when you retire, you take the money out as cash, without hassles.

However, a small whole life policy can be a good way to diversify a portfolio. During the recent downturn in the stock market, my whole life policies did fairly well in comparison to my other investments. But as a primary investment vehicle, they are a bad choice, as the rate of return is far less than in equities. I have maybe 1/10th of my net worth in Life Insurance at the present time, and that is probably a good amount.

Bear in mind that life insurance is a contract, and is not guaranteed in any way. If the company goes bankrupt, you can lose everything, although such incidents are rare. Life insurance companies generally invest their proceeds in commercial Real Estate and the like, and thus can be subject to downturns in the Real Estate market, as particularly happened in the late 1980's.

Note also that a whole life policy is a forced investment. You have to pay the premiums, like clockwork, for the life of the policy, or the policy lapses and you'll get back only your cash value. Thus, if your life circumstances change, you may find that you want to scale back on some investments. But a life policy can't be scaled back in many cases.

For that reason, don't buy more whole life than you can easily afford. Limit the premium to an amount you are comfortable with. When I was 29, I bought a $100,000 life policy for about $99 a month. I figured that no matter what happened in my life situation, I could swing $99 a month from then onward. If you buy too much insurance, you'll be more inclined to drop the policy if you need the money later on.


3. MUTUAL OR STOCK COMPANY?

When selecting a company, you should understand the type of company you are investing in. Stock companies, like the name implies, sell stock and pay dividends to shareholders. As such, they have to bosses to answer to, the shareholders and the policy holders. Both want to get paid, and the proceeds have to be divided in two.

In a mutual company, the policy holders ARE the shareholders, so any dividends or profits are paid back in the form of policy dividends to policy holders, not in stock dividends to shareholders. Thus, a mutual company is preferred if you are purchasing whole life.


4. Adjustable Life, Variable Life

There are other forms of whole life which are interesting vehicles for investment. These types of polices allow for the investment vehicle to comprise a larger part of the policy, or allow the amount invested to vary over time. The IRS has stringent rules on the ratios of investment to insurance, lest the whole concept of whole life be turned into nothing more than a tax avoidance sham.

Some of these policies are almost like a investment account, in that you can direct the surplus funds into one or more of a number of investment accounts (mutual funds and the like) and can control, to some extent, the amount invested over time.

These are more complicated polices and it pays to read the policy and understand it and also understand how and when you can take your money out. Again, the more complicated a financial transaction is, the greater the chance it works to your disadvantage. You may find your agent strangely less-than-helpful in helping you understand these polices. The Agent will want you to take actions that result in a higher rate-of-return for the company and himself. He will not volunteer useful information to you.

I would not recommend these more esoteric investment vehicles for the average investor. I have one of each, and while they have done OK, I probably would have been smarter to put the money into my 401(k) or IRA.


5. A Note on Beneficiaries

The beneficiary is the person or persons who will receive the proceeds of your life insurance, should you die. You can leave the money to your spouse, children, a friend, or even a total stranger. It doesn't matter. Or, could leave the money to your estate.

As part of your estate, the money would then be dispersed according to your Last Will and Testament, or according to the State law, should you die intestate (without a Will). Leaving the money to your estate can be handy, as the money can be used to pay debts of the estate, and also you can change who gets the money by changing your will.

However, the money, when left to your Estate, may be taxable to the recipients or may be taxed at the State level.  Contact your local tax expert in your jurisdiction for more information.   The other disadvantage of designating your Estate as beneficiary is that it puts the money into probate, and thus delays payout and also raises the specter of hateful relatives who decide to sue for "their share" of your Estate.   If you designated Joe Blow as your beneficiary, the money goes directly to him (all he needs to do is file a copy of the death certificate with the company and wait for his check) and it is tax-free and the hateful relatives can't touch it.

Designating a child as a beneficiary can be a bit tricky, as insurance companies will not pay money out to a child under the age of 18. Any child under 18 can renounce any contract upon reaching majority (age 18). So if you pay out to a child, at age 18 they can say "I changed my mind, pay me again! the first time didn't count!".

Thus, if you designate your children as beneficiaries of your life insurance, someone will have to be appointed as custodian of the money on behalf of the child. Alternatively, the life insurance company will keep the money (with or without paying interest, depending upon the terms of the policy) until the child reaches age 18.


6. SO.... Do you need LIFE INSURANCE?

Short answer: For a young breadwinner starting out with a family and no assets, a small term policy is probably a good idea. Whole Life is an interesting toy to play with, but don't let the agent talk you into investing any major amount of money in a whole life policy, as it really isn't the most effective investment vehicle.

And never, ever, trust an Insurance Agent. They are salesmen, plain and simple, and they will do anything and say anything to make a sale and to cover their ass.
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